| DRESSAGE
Dressage in its correct form
is the equivalent to ballet - graceful and
controlled but with life and expression. To
achieve "perfection" takes years of training
but it is extremely rewarding. However
dressage can be performed at various levels so it
is not an exclusive club.
This section outlines the various levels attainable
and what has to be achieved for each level as well
as advising on terminology, etiquette and
training. There is also a links
section.
Governing Body
British
Dressage apply the rules and regulations and comes
under the BEF umbella for representation with the
FEI.
The different levels
of attainment are:-
Preliminary
Novice
Elementary
Medium
Advanced Medium
Prix St. Georges
Intermediare I
Intermediare II
Grand Prix
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| At each level there are set
tests which examine the combined accuracy of horse
and rider; these tests have
increased technical content depending on the
level to reflect the development of the horse as
he progresses up the training ladder.
Preliminary |
A very simple test only demanding basic
changes of rein and large circle work
in walk, trot and canter with easy transitions;plus
halt. Judges are looking for evidence
of correct, but basic training. |
Novice |
The horse has to demonstrate lenthening
of stride in trot and canter and also
perform half 10m circles in trot and half
15m in canter. |
Elementary |
More demanding in that the horse has
to perform lateral work, counter canter
and rein back; medium trot has also to
be executed. |
Medium |
The half pass is now introduced as
is the pirouette in walk; collected and
counter canter with a simple change are
also required. |
Advanced Medium |
As above but with flying changes thrown
in. |
Prix St. Georges |
|
Intermediare I |
|
Intermediare II |
|
Grand Prix |
|
Grand Prix Special |
|
British Dressage Structure
- Points are not awarded in
preliminary classes so competitors can remain at
this level (which is an introductory level to
help horse and rider get the general feel of
affiliated competition and accustom both to the
experience) for as long as they wish without
ever having to advance if they do not want
to.
- If you decide to
go up a level that's fine, you can return to
preliminary tests, but once you begin to
attain points - and reach the "37"
mark, you are then prohibited from further
preliminary level competion.
- Once at Novice
level, if you score 60% or higher you gain one
point; 67% or higher though is a maximum of 7
points. See below for more on the scoring
structure.
- Whatever level
you are at, classes are split into two -
restricted and open sections depending upon the
number of points a horse has so as to try and
maintain fair competition.
British Dressage are
doing all they can to encourage more people to
affiliate i.e. take up dressage competition
to recognised standards (because the level of
judging is consistent; BD judges have to
undergo accredited training to maintain
standards). To this end shows known as AREA
FESTIVALS have been introduced. These are
chamionship-style shows open to anyone with a score
of 57% or above at preliminary to medium
level. If you finish in the top three at one
of these competitions, then you automatically
qualify for the Area Festival Finals.
Dressage has summer
and winter seasons, both ending with championships
at all levels.
So you given it some serious
thought and you are ready to bite the bullet -
what next?
First Steps
- Register yourself with British
Dressage
- Register your horse with British
Dressage. If you are not the owner, then
that person must be a BD member.
- Your horse must
also be registered with the British Horse
Database.
- If
you are still not sure about making a full
commitment before trying your hand then you can
purchase a class
ticket which allows you to enter
up to 6 affiliated competitions in a year on
either a registered or non-registered
horse.
You will have to abide by the Rules
and although you are eligible to keep any
rosette(s) and prize money, if the event you win
is a qualifier for another competition that
qualification is passed to the next eligible
candidate (i.e. a full BD member); you will not
receive any points or grading. As well as
purchasing a class ticket, you will also pay the
appropriate entry fee.
Please
visit the British Dressage website for current
registration rates
Other Points to
Note
- There are rules concerning the types of
bits and spurs allowable for the different
levels of competition; rules regarding bridles
also change
as to progress
up the ladder.
- Likewise the dress code changes
also.
- Sometimes entries
to a class exceed the requisite number so
balloting takes place. If you enter a
class but unfortunately you are balloted out
then you will receive a "priority" sticker to
attach to the entry form of the next competition
you decide to go for.
- Once a British
Dressage member, you may continue to
compete in unaffiliated competitions, but of
course you cannot win any points.
- When competing
your horse must display either a bridle
number or saddle cloth number (these are
obtained from British Dressage).
- For riders
between the ages of 12 and 21 there is the
British Young Riders Dressage Scheme (BYRDS);
for riders aged 8 to 11 years there is
"Fledglings". These children do not need
to be a member of British Dressage to be
eligible for this.
The Scoring
System
Before
we go any further
let's take a look
at the arena:
The letter sequences
around both arenas
are the same, it's
just that the Long
Arena obviously
has more. There
appears to be no
logic in the sequence
so it is just a
case of learning
which letters are
where!
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|
The
Short
Arena
measures
20m
x 40m.
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|

|
The
Long
Arena
measures
20 x
60m.
The
theory
behind
the
longer
sides
is to allow
more
space
for
extended
paces
both
on the
straight
and
across
the
diagonals.
Advanced
Medium
Classes
and
aove
all
take
place
in the
Lond
Arena.
|
What are
judges looking for in a test?
Whatever the level
you are performing at, judges are looking for some
basic criteria for their starting point of
awarding marks. As you are riding think
"RICCSS" to keep these criteria uppermost in your
mind
Rhythm |
Whatever pace you are working in, there
is a correct tempo for that pace and this
must be maintained throughout a movement
at the designated pace. Upward and
downward transitions should also be executed
in a smooth manner. |
Impulsion |
Whatever pace you are working in, the
horse must perform with activity and energy
- no half hearted "if I must" responses! |
Contact |
The horse should work and perform the
required movements within the lightest
contact on the reins from the rider; there
must be no evidence that the rider is
pulling against the horse or vice versa. |
Collection |
When a horse is truly collected he
is able to shorten the length of the steps
he takes because he bring his hind legs
more underneath his body in order
to carry more weight (as in, for example,
piaffe). Of course a horse does
this to some extent (or should do) during
a downward transition. |
Suppleness |
The horse executes to designed movements
with freedom and without resistance.
He should flex(bend) readily (in the appropriate
direction) on circles and turns |
Straightness |
Remember that a horse should be flexed
in the direct of the movement so therefore
when moving directly forwards (or backwards)
his body should be straight from forelock
to dock - no inclinations or tilt of head
t left or right. |
The manner in which a horse can perform the
designated movements i.e. how accurately and with
what degree of suppleness, collection etc. is
the theory behind the different levels.
Obviously not every horse has the physical requirements
to be a capable and competant dressage
horse. You have to be realistic and view
your horse very critically and make a reasoned
decision depending upon what your aspirations
are in the same way as a rider knows a horse's
jumping limitations and accepts that just because
he leaps a Newcomer's course quite easily,
doesn't mean he can make it to Grade
A.
So what should you look for in a horse
required for dressage?
There are
undoubtedly horses that have a natural aptitude
for dressage by their presence, conformation,
natural paces and temperament. So, whilst
training can immensely improve on what nature
created, a horse that is a daisy-cutter cannot be
turned into a hackney!
The obvious first
consideration is the conformation as, if from the
outset, you are working against the physical
structure then your task will be much harder
and it will be that much more difficult for
the horse to work and achieve what is being
asked of him; of course in some instances you
will be asking the
impossible. Ok, it is accepted
that the 100% perfectly put together horse rarely
exists, so we look for as many positive features
as possible.
Right, you've gone
to inspect a horse and on the conformation
front -
- The general
overall appearance should be of a horse that
looks proportioned.
- With the horse
standing relaxed, note the neck - does it look
put on upside-down, is it set low - as
the horse may
have difficulty
raising its
head as training
works more towards
collection; is it
set very high - so that the underneath flesh
is rigid.
- The tail should
not be clamped down, nor should it be held
out stiffly.
- The legs should
be set nicely square at each "corner" of the
torso.
- What are the feet
doing - turning in, turning out.
- The knees and
hocks should also face forward, no
knock-knees or cow hocks.
- Observe the
throat region; this area does not want to be
thick otherwise true flexion at higher levels is
compromised.
- Look for
a good facial
expression;
a horse that
looks a bit
miserable or
sour doesn't
present a good
image in the
arena! He
needs to look
as if he is
enjoying himself
as much as his
rider.
Now watch the horse
walk
- Avoid those that
drag hooves as this indicates lazy joints, joint
weakness or lack of flexibility.
- Look for a good
stride length which is even.
- Check that none
of the limbs is swung.
- The tail should
be slightly lifted but in a relaxed manner i.e.
not held stifly.
- Look for
long loose stridges
with the hindleg
stepping well
under the body
(see also "Trot")
And how about
trot
- Again, look for
dragging hooves/forging,
- And dishing.
- Observe the tail;
once again this should have a slight but relaxed
lift.
- Whilst hind
leg engagement
is something
that improves
with a horse's
training, look
for a good active
hock and a good
step under the
body.
- Likewise
with movement
from the shoulder;
much can be
done to improve
this but look
for a degree
of natural lift
and spring to
the stride.
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